Farmers' Market Wine Challenge: Padron Peppers

I first encountered the pimiento de padron (padron pepper) during my eight month stay in Spain in 2003 while visiting dear friends in Gallicia, the northwestermost province of Spain where the pepper originates. Here, the local Gallegos serve it typically as a simple tapa, fried in olive oil and sprinkled with coarse salt. While most of these delicious little green peppers are mild, about one in ten can be very, very, bring-tears-to-your-eyes spicy, hence the name "padron" which means "godfather" in Spanish, a reference to the one spicy one as "the godfather" of the batch. The spiciness of the pepper is influenced by different variables, including the amount of rain and sun it received while growing.


The local opinions differ on how to determine which are spicy and which are not--along with other lore related to what is means if you're the one that gets the hot one (Gallegos are very superstitious)--but I have yet to confirm a reliable technique for pre-determining spiciness.  A similar variety of this pepper, the shisito, is cultivated in East Asia and looks and behaves the same. Both are in season now, and both make a delicious and exciting addition to your summer table. I will say that out of all the jalapenos and serranos and other spicy American peppers I've eaten as a native Californian raised on Mexican food, one of the spiciest I've ever had by far was a padron, so be forewarned! 

Whether you've grabbed a bag of padron peppers or shisitos from the market to prepare tonight or soon, you don't need to do much: just sautee over high heat, sprinkle with salt and voila! It will take more effort to choose the wine, since there are certain factors to consider when pairing wine with green peppers that may deliver quite a bit of heat. A succulent, fruity wine with body to balance this pepper's sweetly herbal flavor and potential for spice is best.

A wine pairing rule of thumb I endorse is this: if the ingredient comes from a place with an ancient wine tradition, look to the region for guidance on the wine pairing. In cool-climate Gallicia, white wine is king, and many traditional options will suit a dish of padron peppers well, cooling and refreshing the palate between bites. Look for varietals like Albarino or Godello or white blends from this part of Spain. I'd avoid red wine altogether, but if you desire a red, choose a light, fruity red with moderate to low tannin, like reds made from the Gallician Mencia grape, or a French Gamay. Other international white varieties, like a fruity Sauvignon Blanc, dry to off-dry Riesling or Chenin Blanc should do the trick. And don't forget the many white varietals and blends from nearby Portugual, which borders Galicia to the south. You can't go wrong with the slightly effervescent, off-dry whites from Vinho Verde with this dish, especially if you're eating and drinking during the day. Generally lower in alcohol, a classic Vinho Verde is a must for daytime entertaining!

My top choice for pairing with a plate of padron or shisito peppers right now does in fact hail from Vinho Verde, but is a step up in quality and complexity than your standard porch-pounder. Quinto da Raza  is located in the Vinho Verde appellation and produces several wines including your traditional, fizzy Vinho Verde which I adore, but I am even more enamored of their single vineyard, single varietal, Dom Diogo Arinto. Classified as Vinho Verde, this is unlike any Vinho Verde I've ever. Round and succulent, this has barely a whisper of effervescence--it's basically still, if you ask me--with juicy melon and citrus aromas and flavors. Contrary to the current trend, this not a super dry, racy white, which I appreciate in the context of heat. Still, it possesses the perfect balance of minerality and acidity to keep its ripe fruit in check and is great match not only for these piquant peppers, but a whole range of foods, from shellfish to chorizo. It is sure is delicious on its own, too.

I recently served this wine with a plate of padron peppers on a very hot evening that followed a very hot day in Pasadena, and it paired magically, especially with the spicy ones! Soon thereafter, I ordered a plate of shisitos at trendy Redbird in DTLA, and while the skin contact Slovenian white I chose sufficed, I sure wish I had this little Arinto instead. Highly recommended!

Cheers,

-Chiara Shannon 

In stock now: 

2014 DOM DIOGO ARINTO VINHO VERDE, PORTUGAL ($14.99) 

100% Arinto. Located inland in the verdant Vinho Verde region, Quinta da Raza is the home and life of Jose Diogo and Mafalda Teixeira Coelho. Quinta da Raza has a unique terroir created by the gentle slopes and magnificent exposure to the sun. The soil benefits from its granite origins with areas of schist and clay. It has a microclimate created by the mountains in the west and the valley of the Tamega river which prevents the influence of the Atlantic winds. The valley creates a shelter resulting in less rain and a greater temperature range. The vineyards are subject to more sun than perhaps other vineyards in the Vinho Verde Region, which are important factors for the development of the vines. Moreover, the average altitude of Quinta da Raza is 820 feet, which corresponds to the best average altitude suited for growing grapes. In 1999 / 2000, significant improvements were introduced in the cellar, including new oenological and storage equipment. Incidentally, the bird which appears on the Raza label is the Lesser Kestrel, locally called "Peneireiro“. (Importer)

Farmers' Market Wine Challenge: Eggplant

It's eggplant time! Also known as aubergine for it's purple skin, the eggplant turns up in the cuisine of many cultures, from Indonesia to the Mediterranean, and it's certainly suited to the climate of California! A member of the nightshade family, along with the potato and tomato, the eggplant's deep purple hue adds an attractive color contrast to the reds, yellows and greens of other ingredients in dishes. The skin and the flesh can be quite bitter,  however, making it both bane and blessing at the table. Chefs have many tips for dealing with the  bitterness of eggplant, but nevertheless eggplant remains a polarizing food: folks either love it or they hate it. I happen to love it--grilled in a Mediterranean-inspired eggplant salad, roasted and pureed in a variety of spreads and dips (baba ganoush, anyone?) or braised and served alongside a hearty protein like beef or lamb.

Eggplant's distinct flavor and texture present an opportunity for some delicious wine pairing, as long as you steer clear of tannic reds and oaked whites, which will amplify bitter flavors. Still, a  wine with ample structural components is needed to match eggplant's richness. This bodes well for red wine, but I'd keep it on the fruitier side. Mediterranean varietals and blends like Barbera or Dolcetto from Italy and Grenache and Rhone varietal blends from France and Spain, as well as California's Zinfandel come to mind as tasty options to consider.

Asian-inspired dishes with eggplant may include both spicy and sweet ingredients and be seasoned with exotic spices, which changes our wine pairing course. For a dish with heat, I'd avoid any wine that is too dry or high in alcohol; alcohol amplifies the sensation of heat in the mouth. Dry wines taste bitter against fare with sweeter ingredients, and with eggplant is involved we definitely don't want that! A perfumed, fruity white with fresh acidity (and even a little sweetness, depending on the heat of the dish) would be best here. A dry or off-dry Chenin Blanc from France, a fleshy Vermentino or other medium-bodied white from Italy, or a ripe Sauvignon Blanc from California are several options to consider.

For the Mediterranean-inspired grilled eggplant salad I'll be enjoying soon, which includes your usual suspects of garlic, olive oil and vinegar, fresh garlic, green herbs, black pepper and capers, I'm going Greek. Located in Tyrnavos, Greece, Domaine Zafeirakis produces a seductive, perfumed red from the rare indigenous variety Limniona that has all the qualities I'm seeking to match this particular dish: lifted aromatics, soft red fruit, elegant structure and the length on the finish. The red fruit and floral aromatics will play well with the ingredients of the dish, and there's enough acidity to counter the vinegar. The Zafeirakis family has been in the Greek wine business for over a century, but the winery is a new enterprise, founded in 2012 by fourth-generation Christos Zafeirakis, who studied Oenology in Piedmont, Italy. The revitalization of the native varieties otherwise headed for extinction like Limniona is a focus at the domaine, an effort I strongly support. I've been very impressed by what I've tasted so far from this producer--they also make a lovely aromatic white from the Malagousia variety--and I highly recommend the wines.

-Chiara Shannon

In stock now at Mission Wines: 

2011 DOMAINE ZAFEIRAKIS LIMNIONA, TYRNAVOS, GREECE ($20.99)

100% Limniona. "The thick-skinned Limniona grape has become Christos’ signature wine in just its second vintage. It is a silky, sinewy wine without an ounce of fat on it, but with an indescribably mysterious nose, strangely evocative of oriental spices. Aged, interestingly, in Austrian oak barrels (more neutral than French, and beloved by the likes of Willi Bründlmayer), it bears more than a passing resemblance to good Trousseau. A true original and a wine of high class." (Producer) 

Farmer's Market Wine Challenge: Green Beans

Green beans and their longer, thinner French cousin known as French beans or haricot verts are in peak season in California right now. The best quality beans are carefully harvested by hand and can be found at your local farmers' market. These versatile and healthy legumes are delicious cooked and served warm or cold, fresh or seasoned. You can prepare them simply, cooked and served chilled in a salad, or piping hot with a little lemon and garlic (also in season!). They can be braised, added to stews and soups, or--my favorite--hot-and-spicy Szechuan-style with ginger and hot chilis.

Many factors contribute to which wines will best complement your meal. Austria's most popular white variety, Gruner Veltliner, is an excellent option for green bean salads and basic sides served with fish, poultry and white meats. This varietal has an inherent green fruit quality to its aromatics and complements green vegetables very nicely. It is crisp like Sauvignon Blanc but has the body of Chardonnay, making it a balanced and refreshing that will match a broad ranch of foods. Look for a classic Gruner in a liter-sized container, like the Berger Gruner Veltliner ($15.99). Many of these tasty values are either bottled with a stelvin closure (screwcap) or in this case, the ultra-easy, picnic-ready bottle cap! 

Green beans make a healthy addition (or alternative to) french fries or potatoes served with red meat, in which case a red wine would be perfectly appropriate. For a simple steak with haricot verts, I recommend old school Bordeaux, or, for something lighter, a nice Cabernet Franc from the Loire Valley.

When you're amping up the flavor and heat with an Asian-style recipe, an aromatic white with body and a richness balanced by acidity (a little sweetness is ok!) is my preference. You can go Riesling, Pinot Gris, or Gewurztraminer...or why not all three and then some? Brand new to Mission Wines is this enchanting white from the miniscule French appellation Moselle, which neighbors Alsace, Chateau De Vaux "Les Gryphees" Moselle Blanc. A blend of 30% Auxerrois, 30% Muller Thurgau (a crossing of Riesling and Chasselas), 30% Tokay Pinot Gris and 10% Gewurztraminer, this lovely white offers an intoxicating floral nose, succulent peach and tropical fruit flavors, but finishes clean and dry. It's the perfect white for the spicier flavors of summer. 

-Chiara Shannon

In stock now: 

2014 CHATEAU DE VAUX "LES GRYPHEES" MOSELLE BLANC ($16.99)

"Norbert Molozay is a true pioneer in French winemaking who has nearly single-handedly resuscitated France’s most northerly appellation, Moselle. This tiny VDQS (just 100 acres) is tucked up in the northeast corner of France, just over the Vosges Mountains from Alsace, near the Luxembourg border. Although an important wine region up to the mid-nineteenth century, phylloxera, industrialization and two world wars brought near obliteration of viticulture around Metz, in Lorraine, whose production was sold to make champagne until 1910, when the A.O.C. Champagne was created...Les Gryphées shows notes of peaches and white flowers on the nose, followed through the palate with ripe fruit which is both rich, delicate and complex, revealing peaches and banana. Molozay suggests pairing this delightful wine with tagliatelle and mussels, sea scallops or a roasted free-range chicken with lemongrass. Indeed the Germanic resonances of this cuvée marry extremely well with exotic seasonings." (Importer)