Two years ago, in September of 2013, I walked 500 miles across northern Spain on the ancient pilgrim's route known as the Camino de Santiago de Compostela, or, in English, The Way of Saint James. I started in the foothills of the Pyrenees in French Basque territory among Txakoli vines and sheep, crossed over into Spain and descended down the hills of Navarra before continuing along a combination of footpaths, farm tracks roads and highways as I made my way west through some of Spain's most historic wine growing regions: Rioja, Castilla y Leon, Bierzo, Ribeira Sacra and Rias Baixa. The vines were heavy with fruit a this time of year, juicy sweet-tart grapes of dark purple, pinkish red, and yellow-green, depending on the variety, and although I generally demonstrated great restraint, I confess I did sample a berry or two along the way.
September is the month when grapes reach peak ripeness. This is true for both wine grapes and table grapes. Table grapes are the juicy, sweet-tart varieties we like to eat. Wine grapes have thick skins and lots of seeds - necessary for the production of quality wine, but lookout for the bitter aftertaste if you eat one off the vine!
Fresh table grapes of any color make a delicious snack on their own and can lend a tasty sweet-tart punch to a variety of salads. Add a cluster of grapes to a cheese tray and voila!- a fruity tang to offset the lactic and savory flavors of cheese. Did you know you can cook grapes, too? When baked, the sugars concentrate, making them a delicious topping for tarts and and custards. The same qualities also complement savory dishes, accenting earthy root vegetables like parsnips and singing alongside savory herbs like rosemary.
Around here, temperatures are still in the 90s. It's officially fall, but I'm not quite ready for oven-roasted, fall dishes. I do, however, enjoy lightly roasting grapes and incorporating them into healthy and filling salads. A favorite of mine is one that features quinoa, rosemary, and bitter greens such as kale, chard, or whatever I have on hand. Baking the grapes on low heat (250 degrees) for about a half an hour is enough to concentrate the flavors without losing the shape and structure to hold up to the other ingredients. Here's a recipe of a similar dish that uses farro instead of quinoa. You could also substitute wild rice, bulgar wheat, or another grain here, based on your preferences.
It's interesting to think of pairing wine with grapes - wine is made from grapes after all! Grapes are sweet, and if you cook them they sweeten, so you will want a wine that is as sweet as, if not sweeter, than your dish. Think more about the other components of the dish. How sweet is it? It is a dessert? Is there a protein involved? Acidity is important too, especially if your recipe calls for vinegar, which is very acidic. Low acid wines will simply disappear beneath acidic sauces or dressings, while overly tannic wines will taste astringent.
A wonderful, refreshing and slightly sweet option that will complement many dishes using grapes (savory or sweet) is the delightfully sparkling Bugey Cerdon, a spontaneous-fermented sparkling wine traditionally produced in the Savoie region of eastern France, in the foothills of the Alps. We have an especially charming option in stock from Bernard Rondeau. If red wine is your thing, a light, fruity red like Gamay from one of the Beaujolais crus, or simple Grenache (Garnacha) from Spain. Prefer white? Opt for an aromatic, fruity white like Muscat. The lightly sweet, slightly effervescent Moscato d'Asti from Italy is perfect for light desserts, while its sweeter iteration from Banyuls is better matched to richer desserts, particularly those containing chocolate.
Despite my Spanish inspiration for today's piece, my selection comes not from Spain, but from the Loire Valley in France. It combines my favorite elements of the suggestions above: sparkling texture, juicy fruit and subtle complexity, with the added bonus of being an organic, natural wine. La Grange Tiphaine (literally, 'Tiphaine's farm') is a terrific producer in the Loire Valley that farms entirely by hand and pesticide-free. Their wines show wonderful breadth of flavor and terroir-driven character, made in traditional styles meant to be enjoyed with food. Sealed with the ever-convenient bottle-cap, their "Rosa Rose Rosam" Petillant Natural is a blend of Grolleau, Gamay, Cot (Malbec), and Cabernet Franc that offers the perfect balance of flavor, fruit, and body to make an irresistible partner to dishes featuring grapes. The ultimate picnic wine, this is great on its own and a natural partner to cured meats and cheeses. Fresh and lively, but with a nice core of fruit, it's perfect for my quinoa and grape salad, but has the body to stand up to heartier dishes, too. Give it a nice chill and cheers!
-Chiara
Fresh table grapes of any color make a delicious snack on their own and can lend a tasty sweet-tart punch to a variety of salads. Add a cluster of grapes to a cheese tray and voila!- a fruity tang to offset the lactic and savory flavors of cheese. Did you know you can cook grapes, too? When baked, the sugars concentrate, making them a delicious topping for tarts and and custards. The same qualities also complement savory dishes, accenting earthy root vegetables like parsnips and singing alongside savory herbs like rosemary.
Around here, temperatures are still in the 90s. It's officially fall, but I'm not quite ready for oven-roasted, fall dishes. I do, however, enjoy lightly roasting grapes and incorporating them into healthy and filling salads. A favorite of mine is one that features quinoa, rosemary, and bitter greens such as kale, chard, or whatever I have on hand. Baking the grapes on low heat (250 degrees) for about a half an hour is enough to concentrate the flavors without losing the shape and structure to hold up to the other ingredients. Here's a recipe of a similar dish that uses farro instead of quinoa. You could also substitute wild rice, bulgar wheat, or another grain here, based on your preferences.
It's interesting to think of pairing wine with grapes - wine is made from grapes after all! Grapes are sweet, and if you cook them they sweeten, so you will want a wine that is as sweet as, if not sweeter, than your dish. Think more about the other components of the dish. How sweet is it? It is a dessert? Is there a protein involved? Acidity is important too, especially if your recipe calls for vinegar, which is very acidic. Low acid wines will simply disappear beneath acidic sauces or dressings, while overly tannic wines will taste astringent.
A wonderful, refreshing and slightly sweet option that will complement many dishes using grapes (savory or sweet) is the delightfully sparkling Bugey Cerdon, a spontaneous-fermented sparkling wine traditionally produced in the Savoie region of eastern France, in the foothills of the Alps. We have an especially charming option in stock from Bernard Rondeau. If red wine is your thing, a light, fruity red like Gamay from one of the Beaujolais crus, or simple Grenache (Garnacha) from Spain. Prefer white? Opt for an aromatic, fruity white like Muscat. The lightly sweet, slightly effervescent Moscato d'Asti from Italy is perfect for light desserts, while its sweeter iteration from Banyuls is better matched to richer desserts, particularly those containing chocolate.
Despite my Spanish inspiration for today's piece, my selection comes not from Spain, but from the Loire Valley in France. It combines my favorite elements of the suggestions above: sparkling texture, juicy fruit and subtle complexity, with the added bonus of being an organic, natural wine. La Grange Tiphaine (literally, 'Tiphaine's farm') is a terrific producer in the Loire Valley that farms entirely by hand and pesticide-free. Their wines show wonderful breadth of flavor and terroir-driven character, made in traditional styles meant to be enjoyed with food. Sealed with the ever-convenient bottle-cap, their "Rosa Rose Rosam" Petillant Natural is a blend of Grolleau, Gamay, Cot (Malbec), and Cabernet Franc that offers the perfect balance of flavor, fruit, and body to make an irresistible partner to dishes featuring grapes. The ultimate picnic wine, this is great on its own and a natural partner to cured meats and cheeses. Fresh and lively, but with a nice core of fruit, it's perfect for my quinoa and grape salad, but has the body to stand up to heartier dishes, too. Give it a nice chill and cheers! -Chiara
2014 LA GRANGE TIPHAINE "ROSA ROSE TOSAM" PETILLANT ROSE VIN DE FRANCE, LOIRE VALLEY, FRANCE ($18.99)
A blend of Grolleau, Gamay, Cot (Malbec), and
Cabernet Franc. (Organic) "A treat! That is exactly what wine evokes. Nothing complicated for natural rosé sparkling wine--just the simple pleasure of a fruity and refreshing bubbly. Enjoy as a nice mid-afternoon wine or aperitif, or with accompanying red fruits. Aging potential: 1-2 years. Serve chilled." (Producer)
